Retention has been every Lash Artist’s biggest worry since Eyelash Extensions were invented. You’ve got a client coming back with only 30% of their lashes after two weeks, what’s the issue? Do your clients cleanse their lashes with the right aftercare? Was the Eyelash Glue used expired? Well, what if we tell you that you are in charge of the retention for every client that comes to your lash salon, and in 90% of cases it is up to you to make sure that clients’ lash extensions last? Don't believe us? Read on...
A Pre-treatment Routine sounds like an obvious thing, however we know how many Lash Technicians are either ignoring every step or don’t pay as much attention as they should. In order for the eyelash extensions to last, each lash needs to be free of any oils, dust and makeup residue.
It’s easy enough to spot mascara on the lashes, but can you spot the transparent lash serum your client applied on that morning? This is where the biggest problem is – most of the products which are preventing an eyelash glue from sticking to the natural lash properly are invisible to the naked eye, so be very thorough when cleaning the lashes.
If your client comes in with no makeup, you should still at least make sure you use Cleanser to break down any leftover oils, makeup residue and anything else on each lash from root to tip - focussing on that attachment area - and then use Primer to rehydrate the lashes, preparing them for perfect application. On average, the best Lash Techs will spend at least 10 minutes on the preparation of the lashes, not just 2 minutes.
This one is a big one. The way you apply your lash extensions is absolutely crucial for great retention. Two of the biggest issues with the application among many lash artists is either slow attachment, (glue is already half or even fully dry when the extension is placed on the natural lash so can't form a strong bond between the extension and natural lash) or shaky hands, which can be the result of caffeine, or a lack of confidence if you're not yet too experienced.
In order to achieve great retention, the extension needs to be stuck on the natural lash in a fast and steady motion. This can only be achieved through practice and experience, so please don’t panic or give up if you experience inconsistent retention within your first two years of work – your retention will gradually become better as you complete more and more sets. We promise, we’ve been through it too.
Many Lash Technicians are afraid to grab a bit more eyelash extensions glue because they are worried about stickies. This is exactly right. Too much lash adhesive makes a lash set look messy, clumpy and it may end up with unwanted stickies, which are in equal parts uncomfortable and unsafe for your clients natural lashes.
However, grabbing too little eyelash glue can also have an impact on your retention. Make sure your attachment area is at least 2-3 mm (if you're not sure what this looks like, grab a ruler and get familiar with this measurement and practice on a Mannequin Head). Make sure too, that when you are dipping the extension into the lash glue that the layer of glue on the extension is not too thin, seeing a tiny little bulb of glue at the end of the extension is a good thing.
Lash Extensions Glue is a mixture of different ingredients, so in order to make sure it works the same way every time you apply the lashes, you need to shake it. Unshaken lash adhesive will cause you all sorts of problems, and the good news is that you can use a Glue Shaker which speeds up the process, and ensures that glue doesn't even get into the nozzle to block your bottle, like it can with hand shaking.
Don’t forget to keep your lash glue nozzle clean with Biodegradable Glue Nozzle Wipes, keep your bottle tightly closed all the time you are not using it, and store it away from direct sunlight, sources of heat, and humid places in an Air Tight Container.
